On those cold mornings when you want to lay in bed and enjoy reading a book, with a hot cup of tea or coffee at hand while the wind and rain attack those who venture outside, a place is needed to rest the coffee cup.
This coffee stand needed to be within easy reach. The aft berth on Moor or Less will have the head of the berth forward (not planned to be used while sailing), the area next to the pillow, against the hull seemed like a good location for a small (very small) bedside table.
To make the top of the bedside cabinet a small piece of cabin sole ply with the teak and ask striped paneling has been used. Around the top of the table surface, a small fiddle is installed to stop items sliding off should there be a rolling anchorage. Access to the small cabinet below is through the hinged table top which tilts up, pivoting from the hull side of the hull.
I wanted the lid of the storage compartment to be slightly higher than the mattress of the bunk. Similar compartments were also needed on either side of the V-berth.
Measuring Up
Starting with the aft cabin, and Using a piece of cardboard for a template, the shape of the hull was traced and cut out.
The hull is moving outwards as you move forward, and not paralell to the berth. The top of he compartment will be in two parts and consist of a lifting rectangle piece hinged off a tappered piece which is attached to the hull.Using small stainless steel butt hinges to joing the two pieces of the compartment top, it will be neccessary to joint them by the hinges prior to attaching the fixed piece to the cabinet.
Installation
With the hull as one side of the cabinet, the bulkhead as another, and the bunk base as the bottom, leaving only two sides and the top to be created.. The two sides of the cabinet are made from maple 90mm x 12mm, and are sealed using interior vanish, as is the cabinet top.To attach the cabinet to the hull and bulkhead, small timber battens needed to be attached with Epoxy. The sides of the cabinets will be screwed onto these timber battens allowing it to be removed easily if required in the future.
Obtaining the profile of the vertical curve on the hull where the cabinet side attached to the hull was obtained by placing the partially constructed cabinet on the bunk next to where it is to be installed, and the profile "fished" onto the side of the cabinet. Once the profile has been cutout on the side of the cabinet, the locations of the battens could be marked and glued in place.Once the Epoxy had set, the cabinet was attached with s/s screws, and the inside of the cabinet lined with the synthetic felt. Contact Adhesive was used to bond the lining to the cabinet.
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
Door to the Thrown Room
The head and shower area on Moor or Less is not what you would call over sized. Providing easier access the door to the head is a bi-fold door, with piano hinges used to secure the two halves of the door together as well as attaching the door to the door-jam.
The problem with the installation is that the piano hinges that were used were not stainless steel, resulting in two issues. The first issue is that in the marine environment, the piano hinges have corroded and seized. The second issue is the mess that corroding hinges leave on the floor of the head (piles of rust dust).
Hinge Replacement
The hinges would need to be replaced with stainless steel hinges. Using a Phillips head screw driver, I removed the 20 odd small screws attaching the door to the door-jam, to take back home to work on it. Once home, the two parts of the door were separated with the removal of the second corroded piano hinge.
Instead of using piano hinges I decided to replace the piano hinges with 4 x 25mm stainless steel butt hinges, both for the joining of the two halves of the door, and to attach to the door itself to the jam. After measuring out the locations of the hinges, I marked where the timber will need to be removed for the recess, and where the holes drilled for the screws.
Drilling 2mm pilot holes in the edge of the door for the screws was to prevent the timber splitting, as the door was only 20mm thick. Next came the chiseling of the timber, which was quite easy with my newly purchased and, and very sharp chisel. To secure the hinges to each door edge I used 3 x 20mm x 6 g stainless screws in each hinge.
The two door halves were quite stiff even though they were only 20mm thick. The alignment of the hinges with each other is important to ensure that the door isn't stressed when being opened, which may result in the splitting of the timber. A trick when installing small cabinet hinges is to fully open the hinge so that sits flat against the face of the door, and clamp it while tightening the screws.
Once all the hinges were installed on the door, it was ready for re-installation onto the boat.
Door Latch
There had never been a door latch installed on the door, and one would be needed when guests are onboard. The bi-fold door would fold back on itself, so the selected latch would need to be thin, else hit against the other half of the door.
Another challenge was to make sure that the portion of the latch which mounted on the door-jam didn't protrude too much, as it would catch on peoples clothing when entering/leaving the head. The alternate method was to install a low profile latch onto the door-jam, and mount the striker plate onto the edge of the door. This appeared to be a better option, so a low profile stainless steel toilet door latch was purchased, similar to those seen on public toilets with the indicator panel to show if it was vacant or occupied.
The problem with the installation is that the piano hinges that were used were not stainless steel, resulting in two issues. The first issue is that in the marine environment, the piano hinges have corroded and seized. The second issue is the mess that corroding hinges leave on the floor of the head (piles of rust dust).
Hinge Replacement
The hinges would need to be replaced with stainless steel hinges. Using a Phillips head screw driver, I removed the 20 odd small screws attaching the door to the door-jam, to take back home to work on it. Once home, the two parts of the door were separated with the removal of the second corroded piano hinge.
Instead of using piano hinges I decided to replace the piano hinges with 4 x 25mm stainless steel butt hinges, both for the joining of the two halves of the door, and to attach to the door itself to the jam. After measuring out the locations of the hinges, I marked where the timber will need to be removed for the recess, and where the holes drilled for the screws.
Drilling 2mm pilot holes in the edge of the door for the screws was to prevent the timber splitting, as the door was only 20mm thick. Next came the chiseling of the timber, which was quite easy with my newly purchased and, and very sharp chisel. To secure the hinges to each door edge I used 3 x 20mm x 6 g stainless screws in each hinge.
The two door halves were quite stiff even though they were only 20mm thick. The alignment of the hinges with each other is important to ensure that the door isn't stressed when being opened, which may result in the splitting of the timber. A trick when installing small cabinet hinges is to fully open the hinge so that sits flat against the face of the door, and clamp it while tightening the screws.
Once all the hinges were installed on the door, it was ready for re-installation onto the boat.
Door Latch
There had never been a door latch installed on the door, and one would be needed when guests are onboard. The bi-fold door would fold back on itself, so the selected latch would need to be thin, else hit against the other half of the door.
Another challenge was to make sure that the portion of the latch which mounted on the door-jam didn't protrude too much, as it would catch on peoples clothing when entering/leaving the head. The alternate method was to install a low profile latch onto the door-jam, and mount the striker plate onto the edge of the door. This appeared to be a better option, so a low profile stainless steel toilet door latch was purchased, similar to those seen on public toilets with the indicator panel to show if it was vacant or occupied.
Tuesday, March 27, 2012
Installation of the Deck Fittings
Layout
As the vessel had never been finished, one area which was outstanding (one of many) was the deck fittings. The vessel had only the hatches installed and a few bollards for attaching mooring lines. This means that all the sailing hardware had to be decided upon, purchased and then installed.
Winch Selection
There are several winch manufacturers to select from, but having used ARCO winches on my previous boats, and never had any problems with these beautifully engineered winches. The winch manufacturer selection process was easy.
The ARCO winches are also covered by a lifetime warrantee. A company with that much confidence in their product wins me over.
The next step was how many, where, and what type and size. Being a cruising vessel, I was determined to have a sail and rigging plan which was as straight forward as possible. A simplified sail plan will reduce the number of control lines, clutches and general clutter in and around the cockpit.
Self-tailing winches on the headsail sheets was a must, with two speed gearing of suitable ratio to enable a small statue person handle the full headsail. After looking at several similar size boats, I decided on decided on the ARCO 40 two speed self tailing winches. This size/type selection also lined up with that suggested size on the ARCO website.
To assist with short-handed sailing, having all the control lines coming into the cockpit area will mean that reefing and adjusting sails ccan be done without leaving the cockpit.
Two coach house winches will be needed for the sail control lines (reefing lines, outhaul, halyards, topping lift).
Self-tailing winches would free up a hand, which always seems a bonus when adjusting sails.
The coach house on either side of the companionway is not very wide. On an older 31 foot boat, the width of the cockpit is typically not exceptionally wide. With a dodger in place, the winch handle in a coach house mounted winch would not be able to complete a full circle. Using single speed winches would mean that the handle could be rotated backwards without load. The ARCO 30 single speed self tailing winches were selected as a balance between speed and mechanical advantage.
Rigging
The mast which came with the vessel was originally a mast from a racing Cole 31. The mast utilises wire/rope halyards, which I dislike with passion (having sliced hands open on several boats which had wire halyards in the past).
The wire/rope halyards will be replaced with 8mm Spectra rope. Using the Spectra means that I can still use the same exit slots in the mast (just replace the blocks), but more importantly, it will be possible to use standard rope winches/clutches/deck organizers.
The headsail will be on a furling system, and as it will be on the furler for the majority of time, will be cleated off at the mast. The main and MPS halyards will be returned to the cockpit, as will the two mainsail reefing lines, out haul, and spinnaker pole topping lift. This means a total of 6 control lines need to be returned to the coach house winches, 3 lines per side.
Rope Clutches & Deck Organizers
Triple Rutersgen rope clutches, (one on each side) will be placed in front of the coach house winches for the sail control lines. Between the mast and the rope clutches, the control lines will need to turn through an angle of approx 70 degrees after exiting the mast base. These deck mounted blocks are often called deck organizers, and will also be from the Rutersgen line of products.
Headsail Tracks & Cars
Again Rutersgen was selected for the headsail tracks and cars. Most of the Adams 31 CCs looked at have 3m sections of tracks, however only the back 1m section apprears to have ever been used. The headsail will be on a furler resulting in the foot and clew being high off the deck, it is pointless to carry the track forward of the mast even at 50% sail, so 2m sections were selected.
Storm sails should always have the sheets attached. Separate anchore points and blocks will be used for the storm jib.
Installation Begins
Once you have the fittings, there becomes an eagerness to install. A boat without deck hardware looks very bare, so as soon as possible the bits and pieces would be installed.
Many of the bolts fastening the deck hardware would be coming into the main saloon area, dome nuts would be needed. The dome nuts not only make them appear more presentable, but also safer (no sharp threads left exposed). Once the locations for the winches were determined and marked out, the holes were drilled, bolt lengths measured, and the appropriate fastenings purchased.
On my previous boats, I have had varying degrees of success with Sika-flex and silicon based sealants. After speaking with several shipwrights, I am convinced that the Selleys' Mastic is a better option, as it will re-seal if there is any movement.
The winches were the first to be installed, starting with the headsail sheet winches. The winches were mounted in the middle of the cockpit coaming to allow for the sheet to be fed from either forward or aft. Placing them in the centre also allows the helmsman to reach them by just reaching around from behind the wheel. This will be good for single handed tacking.
Placing ample sealant around each of the holes, and coating the bolt threads before inserting them through the holes will hopefully provide a good seal. The port winch was a one person job, as I could reach and turn the nuts on the bottom through the lazarette while at the same time hold the bolt heads from the top. With the starboard winch however I needed the assistance of another pair of hands.
Mounting the fittings on the coach house, either side of the companionway, it was possible to reach both the bolt heads and nuts at the same time, making the installation a one person job. The rope clutches for the sail control lines were installed quickly thanks to their design. The design provides for the base of clutch to be detached for mounting onto the surface. This design has the added benefit of allowing the rope clutch to be maintained in the future, without disrupting the sealant.
As the vessel had never been finished, one area which was outstanding (one of many) was the deck fittings. The vessel had only the hatches installed and a few bollards for attaching mooring lines. This means that all the sailing hardware had to be decided upon, purchased and then installed.
Winch Selection
There are several winch manufacturers to select from, but having used ARCO winches on my previous boats, and never had any problems with these beautifully engineered winches. The winch manufacturer selection process was easy.
The ARCO winches are also covered by a lifetime warrantee. A company with that much confidence in their product wins me over.
The next step was how many, where, and what type and size. Being a cruising vessel, I was determined to have a sail and rigging plan which was as straight forward as possible. A simplified sail plan will reduce the number of control lines, clutches and general clutter in and around the cockpit.
Self-tailing winches on the headsail sheets was a must, with two speed gearing of suitable ratio to enable a small statue person handle the full headsail. After looking at several similar size boats, I decided on decided on the ARCO 40 two speed self tailing winches. This size/type selection also lined up with that suggested size on the ARCO website.
To assist with short-handed sailing, having all the control lines coming into the cockpit area will mean that reefing and adjusting sails ccan be done without leaving the cockpit.
Two coach house winches will be needed for the sail control lines (reefing lines, outhaul, halyards, topping lift).
Self-tailing winches would free up a hand, which always seems a bonus when adjusting sails.
The coach house on either side of the companionway is not very wide. On an older 31 foot boat, the width of the cockpit is typically not exceptionally wide. With a dodger in place, the winch handle in a coach house mounted winch would not be able to complete a full circle. Using single speed winches would mean that the handle could be rotated backwards without load. The ARCO 30 single speed self tailing winches were selected as a balance between speed and mechanical advantage.
Rigging
The mast which came with the vessel was originally a mast from a racing Cole 31. The mast utilises wire/rope halyards, which I dislike with passion (having sliced hands open on several boats which had wire halyards in the past).
The wire/rope halyards will be replaced with 8mm Spectra rope. Using the Spectra means that I can still use the same exit slots in the mast (just replace the blocks), but more importantly, it will be possible to use standard rope winches/clutches/deck organizers.
The headsail will be on a furling system, and as it will be on the furler for the majority of time, will be cleated off at the mast. The main and MPS halyards will be returned to the cockpit, as will the two mainsail reefing lines, out haul, and spinnaker pole topping lift. This means a total of 6 control lines need to be returned to the coach house winches, 3 lines per side.
Rope Clutches & Deck Organizers
Triple Rutersgen rope clutches, (one on each side) will be placed in front of the coach house winches for the sail control lines. Between the mast and the rope clutches, the control lines will need to turn through an angle of approx 70 degrees after exiting the mast base. These deck mounted blocks are often called deck organizers, and will also be from the Rutersgen line of products.
Headsail Tracks & Cars
Again Rutersgen was selected for the headsail tracks and cars. Most of the Adams 31 CCs looked at have 3m sections of tracks, however only the back 1m section apprears to have ever been used. The headsail will be on a furler resulting in the foot and clew being high off the deck, it is pointless to carry the track forward of the mast even at 50% sail, so 2m sections were selected.
Storm sails should always have the sheets attached. Separate anchore points and blocks will be used for the storm jib.
Installation Begins
Once you have the fittings, there becomes an eagerness to install. A boat without deck hardware looks very bare, so as soon as possible the bits and pieces would be installed.
Many of the bolts fastening the deck hardware would be coming into the main saloon area, dome nuts would be needed. The dome nuts not only make them appear more presentable, but also safer (no sharp threads left exposed). Once the locations for the winches were determined and marked out, the holes were drilled, bolt lengths measured, and the appropriate fastenings purchased.
 |
| First winch base mounted on Starboard side |
On my previous boats, I have had varying degrees of success with Sika-flex and silicon based sealants. After speaking with several shipwrights, I am convinced that the Selleys' Mastic is a better option, as it will re-seal if there is any movement.
The winches were the first to be installed, starting with the headsail sheet winches. The winches were mounted in the middle of the cockpit coaming to allow for the sheet to be fed from either forward or aft. Placing them in the centre also allows the helmsman to reach them by just reaching around from behind the wheel. This will be good for single handed tacking.
Placing ample sealant around each of the holes, and coating the bolt threads before inserting them through the holes will hopefully provide a good seal. The port winch was a one person job, as I could reach and turn the nuts on the bottom through the lazarette while at the same time hold the bolt heads from the top. With the starboard winch however I needed the assistance of another pair of hands.
Mounting the fittings on the coach house, either side of the companionway, it was possible to reach both the bolt heads and nuts at the same time, making the installation a one person job. The rope clutches for the sail control lines were installed quickly thanks to their design. The design provides for the base of clutch to be detached for mounting onto the surface. This design has the added benefit of allowing the rope clutch to be maintained in the future, without disrupting the sealant.
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